Table of Contents:

1. Introduction/Overview

2. Housing and Habitat Requirements

3. Temperature and Humidity

4. Lighting Requirements (If any)

5. Diet/Feeding

6. Handling and Temperament

7. Health Concerns and Preventative Husbandry

8. Supplies and Equipment

9. Additional Notes

Disclaimer

The information provided on this website is for educational purposes and general guidance only. It is not a substitute for professional veterinary advice. Always consult with a qualified reptile veterinarian for any health concerns or before making changes to your care routine.

The Crested Gecko, scientifically known as Correlophus Ciliatus, is an adorable and fascinating species of lizard native to southern New Caledonia which is chain of islands located in the South Pacific Ocean east of Australia. Once thought to be extinct, they were miraculously rediscovered in 1994 after a tropical storm. This rediscovery resulted in them being introduced into the pet trade. Their relatively manageable size, diverse color patterns, and generally docile temperament have contributed to their increasing popularity among reptile enthusiasts. These clingy arboreal creatures are known for their distinct fringe-like crests above their eyes, which has landed them the affectionate nickname of “eyelash geckos”. They are superior climbers and jumpers, which helps them to navigate their dense rainforest habitat with ease. Crested geckos have many unique and interesting features, if you would like to learn more make sure to check out our species spotlight on crested geckos. Each section below may also contain links to popular options for any equipment or supplies you may need.

Introduction/Overview

When setting up a habitat for your crested gecko, it is crucial that you try to mimic their natural habitat as closely as possible, for this section we will be focusing on the enclosure or habitat itself. For baby or juvenile crested geckos, a smaller enclosure can suffice and in some cases is more beneficial, but anything up to 8” X 8” X 12” will work just fine. Adult crested geckos will require more vertical space, we suggest housing adult crested geckos in a MINIMUM 18” X 18” X 24” enclosure. Be sure to use non-toxic substrates such as coco fiber, soil, or paper towels and avoid using sand or gravel as these can cause problems. The more climbing surfaces and hiding places the better. You can spruce up the enclosure with cork bark, foliage, and all sorts of commercially-available reptile hides. This is a humidity-dependent species, so adding safe live plants and a cleaning crew (springtails or isopods) can help to reduce the likelihood of any mold or mildew. We recommend following the above specifications at the bare minimum, but also make sure that the enclosure is well-ventilated and secure enough to prevent any potential escape attempts.

Optimal temperatures are a fundamental component to caring for any reptile, and crested geckos are quite sensitive when it comes to high and low temperatures. The enclosure should be kept between 72F and 80F during the day. A slight drop in temperature at night is fine as long as it is kept above 65F. It is very important that the temperatures in the enclosure never exceed 82F for an extended period of time, as this can cause undue stress and heath problems. If you live in a colder climate and are having issues keeping the temperatures in this range, you can use a low-wattage ceramic heat emitter or a space heater with a thermostat to maintain the temperature range.

Humidity is one of the most important factors when it comes to the husbandry and care of crested geckos. These creatures require moderate to high humidity, especially during a shedding period. Keep the humidity level between 50-70% on average and increase it when the animal is shedding to aid them in doing so. You should provide a dish with clean water for your geckos, but also make sure to spray or mist the enclosure at least twice a day to help maintain the appropriate humidity levels. Also, make sure to avoid over-saturating one area in the enclosure, as this can lead to issues with mold. A good practice is to alternate which side of the enclosure you are misting. Adding moss and fake or safe live plants can also help to maintain the overall humidity in the enclosure.

Contrary to popular belief, crested geckos do not require a heat lamp, but it is beneficial to provide them with a daylight on a timer. This provides the animal with a more stable day/night cycle. Crested geckos are crepuscular, which means that they are most active at dawn and dusk. This means that they can generally thrive without UVB light, but you should still provide a low-level UVB light (2.0 - 5.0) to help them absorb calcium and improve their overall health.

Primary Diet: A high-quality commercial crested gecko diet (powdered food) that contains all necessary nutrients. Brands like Pangea or Repashy are recommended. Mix with water according to directions to create a paste. Juveniles should be given this food paste every day, but adult crested geckos are fine eating every 2 or 3 days as long as their weight is appropriate (See additional info below for healthy weights).

Note: Blueberries, strawberries, raspberries, and blackberries are generally safe and can be offered as an occasional treat.

Insects: Supplement their diet with gut-loaded and calcium-dusted insects (like crickets or mealworms) once or twice a week for juveniles and once a week for mature adults. If for any reason your pet refuses and does not eat the insects, be sure to remove any uneaten crickets or mealworms from the enclosure.

Water: Provide fresh, chlorine-free water at all times in a shallow dish. You should also mist the enclosure to maintain the humidity and provide water droplets for drinking, just remember to alternate where you are misting and allow that area of substrate and enclosure to dry partially in between waterings.

Crested geckos are known for their relatively docile and calm temperament, which contributes to their increased popularity as pets. However, as with any type of reptile, they can also have very distinct personalities that completely go against their usual mannerisms. That being said, crested geckos tolerate handling fairly well. They can, however, be quite skittish if they are not acclimated to handling or human interaction. Take great care in how and when you handle your pet, as they can be very delicate. You should never grab or squeeze a gecko, but rather allow them to venture onto your hand or arm. This prevents any potential danger to the animal, and also allows that build up of trust and comfortability. Consistent, careful, and safe interactions will help your pet become accustomed to human interaction. Keep in mind, however, that geckos have varying personality types. You should always gauge your animal’s mood and behavior before attempting to handle them. If they are being skittish and elusive, leave them be and try again another time. Also keep in mind that crested geckos are adept at climbing and jumping, so always handle them over a soft, safe surface.

Important note

Crested geckos can and will drop their tails, and do so for a number of reasons including stress and lack of proper husbandry. Unlike other reptiles, their tail will not regenerate after it drops. Be very careful with your pet and be sure to never grab them by the tail. Also, always provide supervision to children when they handle delicate reptiles.

Health Concerns/Common Issues

Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD): This is an issue often caused by improper husbandry or a deficiency in calcium and/or vitamin D3. Symptoms include tremors, muscle weakness, and bone deformities. Proper UVB lighting and adequate calcium supplementation are vital for prevention.

Impaction: This occurs when a gecko ingests indigestible materials such as substrate. This can lead to intestinal blockages and further severe health problems. It is crucial to make sure you are using appropriate substrates (listed above) and avoid anything with loose small particulate matter such as sand or small pebbles. Signs of impaction in crested geckos include loss of appetite, lethargy, a swollen abdomen, difficulty defecating, and weight loss.

Shedding Problems (Dysecdysis): Inadequate humidity, diet, or other husbandry issues can result in incomplete shedding, especially on the toes and tail areas. Stuck shed can cause constriction, which can lead to other issues such as infection. Always maintain proper humidity levels and a healthy balanced diet to ensure your gecko has a solid, productive shed.

Parasites: Both internal and external parasites can affect crested geckos, fecal examinations are recommended by veterinarians on a semi-regular basis to keep an eye out for these pesky buggers. If you suspect your crested gecko has parasites, watch for symptoms like weight loss, lethargy, poor appetite, regurgitation, diarrhea, or abnormal shedding.

Respiratory Infections: Poor ventilation and improper temperatures can lead to respiratory issues. Symptoms may include wheezing, discharge from the nostrils, and open-mouth breathing. Always be sure to maintain proper temperature and humidity levels, and provide proper ventilation to keep your pet in good health.

Proper Enclosure Setup: Provide an appropriately sized enclosure with adequate ventilation and room for the animal to thrive. Offer plenty of places to hide and climb, and always use appropriate non-toxic substrate and decorations. Always maintain proper temperature and humidity gradients to allow your pet to regulate their temperature as needed.

Appropriate Substrate: Use non-toxic substrates that are safe and able to be digested safely. Avoid small particulate matter like sand or small pebbles as these can cause problems if ingested.

Balanced Diet: Offer a balanced diet that includes a high-quality crested gecko food paste supplemented with appropriately prepared insects dusted with vitamin D3 and calcium powder.

Proper Hydration: Ensure that your pet always has fresh, clean water available. Misting the sides of the enclosure is also a good practice that allows your gecko to drink the droplets.

UVB Lighting: While crested geckos can thrive without the implementation of UVB lighting, it is recommended to provide them with a low-level UVB light to aid in calcium absorption and give them a little more overall support.

Regular Maintenance/Cleaning: Maintain and spot-clean your pet’s enclosure daily to prevent bacterial and parasitic infections. Fully clean the enclosure at least once every 2 weeks by removing substrate and decorations, disinfecting, and replacing with new substrate. Always use proper protective equipment and use pet-safe cleaning products. If you are unsure about the safety of a product, err on the side of caution and locate something that you know is safe.

Veterinary Care: Schedule an annual wellness checkup with a reputable reptile-savvy veterinarian to ensure your pet is happy and healthy.

Terrarium: A vertical terrarium is ideal, as crested geckos are a tree-dwelling species. Size is important, a larger enclosure with plenty of climbing room is always better. The only consideration is that the larger the enclosure, the more you will need to keep an eye on your humidity levels. For juvenile geckos, a terrarium measuring 8”X8”X12” is plenty of room. For mature adults, aim for something at least 18”X18”X24”.

Substrate: Options include coconut fiber, reptile carpet, a bioactive substrate mix, or clean paper towels. Coconut fiber or bioactive substrate mixes both provide much more humidity retention, and can also be paired with safe live plants to hold even more moisture.

Hides: Commercially available hides and decorations include cork bark and coconut shells, to name just a couple of the hundreds of viable options on the market. Having multiple hides is crucial for crested geckos to feel secure.

Climbing Structures: Branches, vines, and cork bark all provide excellent obstacles and opportunities for your crested gecko to show off their climbing skills. Crested geckos are arboreal, so the more vertical objects to climb and hide behind the better. This enriches the overall environment of the enclosure and promotes healthy activity.

Plants: Live or artificial plants provide cover, create a more naturalistic environment, and can also help to maintain humidity levels in the enclosure. Be sure to do your research if you plan to add a live plant to your gecko enclosure, as there are many plant species that are toxic to animals.

Thermometer/Hygrometer: Essential for monitoring temperature and humidity levels. Ideally you should have at least two set up on different sides of the enclosure. This allows for closer monitoring and accurate readings, which are both crucial to the overall health of your pet.

Heating: Crested geckos do not require intense heat, or a heating element of any kind. However, in colder climates you may use a low-wattage ceramic heat-emitter or space heater in the room to help maintain proper temperatures. Always use a thermostat to ensure safety and proper temperature ranges.

Lighting: While not strictly necessary, low level UVB lighting (2.0-5.0) can be beneficial to aid in calcium absorption. LED lights can also be used on a timer to simulate a day/night cycle for added enrichment. Lighting is also essential for any live plants inside of the enclosure.

Misting Bottle/Spray Bottle: Essential for maintaining humidity levels inside of the enclosure.

Food Dishes: Shallow dishes for crested gecko diet food paste and insects respectively. Feeding ledges are also very popular with crested gecko keepers.

Water Dish: A shallow water dish that should be filled with fresh water daily and cleaned often. Also remember that crested geckos will readily drink from droplets around the enclosure so be sure to spray or mist the enclosure twice a day as well.

Feeding Tools: Tweezers or tongs can be helpful when feeding insects. Also make sure to have a separate container for the feeder insects to be dusted in calcium supplement powder.

Calcium and Vitamin Supplements: Essential for maintaining healthy bones.

Crested Gecko Diet: Commercially available, complete crested gecko diet from a reputable brand (Pangea, Repashy)

Feeder Insects: Crickets, dubia roaches, or other appropriate feeder insects should be used once or twice a week as a supplement to your geckos main diet.

Longevity: With proper care and husbandry in captivity, crested geckos can live for a significant amount of time, typically ranging from 15 to 20 years and sometimes even longer than that. This makes them a long-term commitment as a pet so be prepared for that. Their lifespan in the wild is less documented but is generally thought to be shorter due to predation and other environmental factors.

Size and Weight: Adult crested geckos can reach a length between 7 and 10 inches (16 to 25cm) with their tail accounting for roughly half of the total length of the animal when present. Adult crested geckos generally weigh between 40 and 60 grams. There is not a significant size difference between adult males and females in terms of length. However, females tend to be heavier and more robust than their male counterparts, especially as they mature and prepare to lay eggs. Males typically appear more slender overall than females. A general weight chart for babies and juveniles can be found below. For simplicity sake, the abbreviation GR stands for Growth Rate, and of course g is the measurement grams.

1 month = 2g (GR of 1g per month)

2 months = 3g (GR of 1g per month)

3 months = 4g (GR of 1g per month)

4 months = 5g (GR of 2g per month)

5 months = 7g (GR of 2g per month)

6 months = 9g (GR of 2g per month)

7 months = 11g (GR of 2g per month)

8 months = 13g (GR of 4g per month)

9 months = 17g (GR of 4g per month)

10 months = 21g (GR of 4g per month)

11 months = 25g (GR of 4g per month)

12 months = 29g (GR of 2g per month)

13 months = 31g (GR of 1g per month)

14 months = 32g (GR of 1g per month)

15 months = 33g (GR of 1g per month)